Monday, April 11, 2016  Fontana Dam, North Carolina
 Well eight days have elapsed and a hundred miles since my last post. Here we are though at the southern gateway to the Great Smoky Mountain National Park, 71 miles of gorgeous hiking that includes the highest point on the AT, Klingman's Dome . Unfortunately at this juncture, I need to take a hiatus for the next several days to find my way to Washington, D.C. for a College of Gastroenterology Governor's meeting and lobbying on the hill; even here, some aspects of work can still call.
  The last week hs been exceptionally cold as a polar vortex, only the second one of the winter has descended on the eastern US plunging temps 15 - 20' below normal. The first week we had daytime temps above 65', and for the last week, some days were not out of the 30's. This has driven some hikers to the security of towns and hostels, myself included.
  After leaving Hiawassee, I was dropped with several other fellow hikers at Unicoi Gap at 3000' The next 16 miles to Dick's Creek Gap is known as the toughest stretch in Georgia, and includes the highest point on the AT in Georgia, Mt. Trey. We set out with other hikers with such colorful names as Wild Horses (whose real name is Morgan, Cheddah, and a Brit who goes by Double O (007). I felt good and strong with a day in town refreshing my constitution, a sentiment shared by my fellows. By 11:45, we had climbed Trey Mountain to have lunch with a perfect view in the cold crisp air. We ran into volcano, a 70 year old on his 4rth attempt to finally finish a thru-hike, having been thwarted by medical issues on previous attempts. He spent the night at Trey, and told us the wind chill had fallen to 10 - 15' overnight. No one froze to death but many at the shelter thought they were. At the top, we also met once again executive, a Delta airlines pilot who lives in Lynn, Ma., and does section hikes with a light pack all along the trail. After lunch, he promised he would bring two days of trail magic in Maine to Antlers campsite, in August and by float plane... awesome!
  Although my companions decided to stop at Addis Gap to camp, my original plan was to continue to Deep Gap and a shelter. On the way, I passed a crew of about 12 Boy Scouts who were headed for the same destination. I found out later that they arrived at the shelter at sundown, finding the place swamped with people as have most shelter sites been since the start. Knowing that there would be a high volume of campers, I continued on the the Disk' Creek Gap, the next major road crossing. On the way, I hiked and got to know somewhat 'puck', who at an age in his early 40's, had retired from the Marines after 22 years where he was a sniper, and personally knew the larger than life figure Chris Kyle, the American Sniper! He was now hiking the trail, before the next chapter of his life would sweep away any free time. We both reached the gap, and walked the half mile to the Top of Georgia hostel, a wonderful 3 year old hostel built and run by Bob. Puck got the last mattress inside and I volunteered to sleep outside in my tent. Once again the night proved to be a chilly one.
  After a hostel breakfast of home-made muffins and coffee, we continued on our way, once again facing a 1000' climb out of the gap. This day was marked by crossing the Georgia boarder into North Carolina, 75 miles and one state down. After reaching Bly Gap, and the gnarly tree, I faced an incredibly hard climb to 4000'. After an arduous day, I reached Standing Indian Shelter by 6:30, and shared the shelter with three or four other young hikers I had met at TOG. An early bed at sunset called me.
  Once again, the next day was clear and cold, around the freezing mark. The climb up Standing Indian Mountain proved much easier tan expected and provided magnificent morning views. I met a couple on top who braved the cold and camped there, rewarded by seeing the sunrise from the summit.
  The second mountain of the day, Mt. Albert, proved to be much more difficult and taxing. The last 200' guided us through a boulder field at 45' incline, and requires all four extremities to guide you safely to the top. From there I descended the mountain a last 2.6 miles to a new beautiful shelter at Long Branch, recently constructed of post and beam and capable of holding 16 hikers. Even then, there were at least another 6 tents set up outside for the 'overflow. There I once again ran into Olivia, Kira, and their husky, Glacier, who I had met and hiked with briefly at Low Gap. They had found a stray dog in the mountains, obviously lost by another hiker, and were bringing the dog to the next town, Franklin. At this stop, I soaked my aching feet in the 45' stream, which initially was numbingly painful, but after removal, made a bid difference in comfort level. There we also met Pharmacy, so dubbed because of the drugs he had brought for a cold, and Little Brother.
   We were all excited to awake the next day to a shorter hike of 7.5 miles to Winding Stair Gap, and a town visit to Franklin, to restock, refresh, and enjoy libation. The timing was perfect as a cold rain was forecast for that night.I reached the gap, sitting alone by 11:30. This was a major highway over the mountains. A free shuttle manned by legendary Ron Haven serendipitously arrived picking up other hikers from the previous Wallace Gap. He gave us the tour of Franklin, and told us we were not obliged to stay at his budget inn, but if you did, the perks included... it was cheap and easy! I went to local outfitter and described my feet neuropathy issue with a very knowledgeable manager who suggested hot mouldable inserts. Since then, my feet have been so much better, and this may have made the difference of whether or not I'll be able to finish this hike!
  The next day we were shuttled to the First Baptist Church for a free hiker pancake breakfast. These were very nice people who do this every year daily for 2-3 weeks at the peak of hiker traffic. After that, Ron shuttled us back to the gap, wishing us well. by 9:30. The day startes sunny after passage of precipitation overnight, The front however brought in a reinforcing shot of cold air, and skies got more cloudy as the day went on and threatened rain, then snow. We had magnificent views over Siler's Bald, and Wyah Bald. Bald are naturally occurring grassy areas that have been open and treeless since before colonial times. The early settlers brought their livestock to graze there. I arrived at Clear Spring Shelter, a shelter built in 1933 with a capacity of 6, and was the 6th person there. One or two of the younger hikers were not happy that I had arrived to occupy this spot ahead of their companions. Ah well, guess they just have to hike faster than an old man. These male young hikers proved to be very immature, and did not hold back vulgarity from the two women who also stayed there, whom they did not really know. One of the young women was from Vermont, hiking the trail alone, but meticulously. The boys had no stoves, and started a fire. Cooking consisted of throwing a 12' tortilla on the open fire for 10 seconds, retrieving it, then flipping and repeating the process while heating pepperoni and cheese to fill said tortilla on a flat rock. Guess they dropped out of scouting before completing the second class cooking requirement!
  The night was windy, rough and cold a stretched my 30' sleeping bag to the limits of what I would call comfortable, even wearing some clothing to bed. Sleep was fitful and not restful. We awoke in the morning to a thin layer of powder snow. One of the boys had left their Sawyer filter outside and it split with freezing. After the others had arisen and cleared space, I took my usual fare of pop-tart and oatmeal, then packed and got underway and span the 12 mile to the NOC, Nantahala Outdoor Center. My Friend Puck had arrived late that night and camped near the shelter, so we were able to reconnect on the trail. The final 5 miles down to NOC was difficult and unending, losing over 3000' feet of elevation. We booked a bunk and shower for the night, and took advantage of the good restaurant on the premises. There I met another older hiker in his mid 50's, 'Slow-Lane', from Anchorage. I had dinner with Puck which consisted of a large Greek salad. Trail cravings were starting to kick in.
  The next day, after starting the day with a breakfast burrito,we once again faced the 3000' climb out of NOC. It was still windy and cold, with the temps never getting out of the high 30's. After stopping for lunch at Sassafras Shelter, I met a pair of hikers, Crisco and Twinkle Toes, who were Dartmouth '17, and had taken two terms off to do the trail. He had earned his name as he had brought crisco to add to the evening meal and add calories, but he soon discovered, it did not add much flavor! At 4:30, I reached Stecoah Gap and a wonderful family doing trail magic of hot dogs, beans, potato salad,... Hopeful was an older local gentleman in charge who had also done the trail twice in 2003 and 2011. His trip in 2011 was almost brought to a halt in the northeast by hurricane Irene. As the night ahead promised one of the coldest nights to date, three of us called the hostel, Cabin in the Woods run by Donna, who came and picked us up. She has a beautiful main log house home with several smaller cabins all equipped with TV, running water, showers etc... all the amenities of home. For an extra $8 she provides you with a home-made dinner, and $5 will get you Breakfast. She is like a mother figure at age 73 and loves her hikers. I decided to stay here two night, and slack-packed the last 15 miles to Fontana.
  So today was a rest day, and Donna will shuttle me to Asheville tomorrow. There I will have dinner with Chris Galloway and his wife who hiked the trail in 2013 and composed a brilliant movie, AT, the long jouney. In exchange for financial help, my reward is dinner at his house and a viewing of the movie. The clips I have seen really capture what it means to face the hardships of hiking the AT. I'll expect to resume my jouney in 6 or 7 days... till then.

April 2, 2016.  Hiawassee, Ga. Four days of hiking the AT from Springer Mt. Have brought me 51 miles to here. I was expecting to continue one more day and get off at Duck's Creek, but more feet problems than expected have brought me to town for a little rest and a lot of first aid. How does one get a blister under a toe nail????
  So far the biggest difference between now and 9 years ago is the numbers of hikers. I spent the first night at Gooch Shelter and there must have been 50 hikers there. There does seem to be more of a party attitude now and from some, less respect for the trail and their impact there as evidenced by a significant amount of litter. When possible, l have already policed and carried out trash I have found along the way.
  I arrived in Atlanta without much problem to 70' temps and green landscapes. Carl, a hostel worker for Josh and Leigh Saint, picked me up from the train and brought 5 of us to the hostel. Carl and his wife Duffy work at the AT Inn in Millinocket as cooks and shuttle drivers as well during the summer months.
  The first day from Springer was a spectacular day and I was able to cover over 16 miles to Gooch Shelter. Much of the day I hiked with Bill, a retired engineer from upstate New York, who at age 66 could outpace many of the younger hikers. The day was crystal clear , unlike 9 years ago when a snowstorm hit us 2 days in. This time the warm dry temps lead me to mild dehydration over Sassafras mountain, not realizing the lack of springs or streams over a 5 mile stretch. Luckily at Cooper gap, the Army left a water hog for hikers which saved the day.
  Once I reached 16 miles to Gooch shelter, I got to set up the new tent. Thank God for u-tube videos. Flat ground was in short supply and the talking by other hikers went well past 11pm. I barely noticed as I was in bed and asleep at sundown around 8:30.
Awoke  to a waxing half moon but also the start of a haze in the sky telling me that I could expect changes in the weather.  I arose, packed and had the standard AT breakfast of two poptarts, two instant oatmeal, and Starbucks mocha via; around 800 calories in all. Estimates are that one expends 4000 to 6000 cal/day on the AT. You can't carry that much food for a 4-6 day stretch between towns, so while you're resupplying in town, you look for low weight calorie dense foods; not that hard in America!
 Bill went out ahead of me and really did not see him again until the end of the day at Blood Mtn.
  Along the way I hiked with a young man from Baltimore, Silly Moose, who had sectioned hiked in Maine and had also done the Long Trail in Vermont. Also met two older gents from Texas who seemed to be struggling at 5 days into their thru-hike which they were using as a fundraiser for Optimus Foundation.
 Lots of people on Blood Mountain and picture opportunities for me and Wilson, my trusty traveling tennis ball companion. From there it was a short run of 1.5 miles to Neels gap (mile 33 from Springer) and the Walysi Center and hostel where I found a bunk and a shower.

  The next day was cloudy and misty. You could feel the threat of rain. Even the air was thick to breathe and seemed less capable of satisfying your oxygen deprivation. A half mile up the trail, I realized I had not checked off in my mind my camera as being packed, and this was confirmed by emptying out the pack there on the trail. A quick return to the center and we found it on the window sill. The hostel workers told me they also found two cell phones. I am glad I discovered my mistake when I did, rather than 9 miles down the trail. The little mishap did cost 45' in all!
Most of the day till 2pm is best described as showers, and I did not get that wet. All that changed with the deluge in the late afternoon. The contents of the backpack stayed dry but me and everything else was soaked. We arrived at Low Gap shelter at 3:30. There were already several tents set up as people hunkered down to weather the storm. By some miracle of providence, as I arrived, another hiker was just leaving the shelter, preferring to face the weather and another 7 miles to the next shelter. He apparently preferred this over remaining in the present shelter where he had engaged in a not-so-pleasant political discussion with three other section hikers. His departure was my opening to the shelter. The rain stopped for a while a dusk, only to reinvigorate itself  into a thunder and lightning display of great magnitude over night. At times, being in a shelter is good !
  The next day brought short lived showers in the morning, as well as dense mist. As the day went on the sun made its appearance again and started to dry my wet clothing and boots. I had a great lunch at Blue Mountain shelter with a spectacular view of the mountains. Though I had planned to hike through Unicoi gap and camp one more night before going into town at Hiawassee, my feet and the prospect of another hot shower prevailed, and we opted to go to town and take a 'zero' to allow the feet a little rest and recovery after some intensive fist aid.
  So today I am hanging out, doing laundry and catching up with blogging. I am staying at the Hiawassee budget inn, the finest the south can offer where a hikers bash is scheduled tonight and over 200 current and previous thru-hikers are expected to attend free food (pulled pork), and blue grass music. We,'ll see how much sleep I get tonight. I may have wished I had gone back to the trail!

Two weeks to go till we begin the second journey on the AT, now 9 years since the last successful saga. Starting to accrue a few new items including a tent that weighs just 1.3lbs. Food shopping at Sam's yesterday, some to go with me,some to mail to Fontana Dam,some for the bump box. Have reservations made at Hiker Hostel in Dalonega, Ga., the same hostel run by Josh and Leigh Saint where we started our jouney. Excitement is mounting. Although Sean won't be able to hike with me this time, I know he and my entire family are there in spirit and have greatly encouraged my efforts to make this second trip a reality. In any case, ill have Wilson and 2500 of my closest hiking friends as companions.

Final Thoughts

Growing up in New Hampshire, the Appalachian Trail and the White Mountains were in my backyard, and I often spent weekends hiking there with my Dad or my Boy Scout Troop. My involvement in the Outing Club began during my undergraduate years at Dartmouth, and it was while a student from 1974-1978 that my desire to hike the entire AT was born. Thru hiking had just started to capture the imagination of hikers, and only a few each year completed the 2175 miles. It would be another thirty years before I was finally able to walk that long path myself.
Life had other plans for my immediate future, which precluded following this dream: medical school, marriage, medical residency in Colorado and at Dartmouth-Hitchcock, and raising a family. For fifteen years I had hinted to my partners in our Gastroenterology practice that I wanted to take a sabbatical. Adventurers themselves, they were willing to let me go. And it didn’t take much arm-twisting to convince my oldest son, Sean, age 24, to come along. He had just graduated from Middlebury College that February, had no job or immediate plans for one, so the timing was right for us both. In addition, my father (Paul J. Lena ‘50, DMS ‘51) had died in January, and now he would accompany us, some of his ashes resting in a small Nalgene bottle in my pack.
Our adventure began on “Step it Up Day,” April 14th, on the top of Springer Mountain, Georgia. We were greeted by a blinding snowstorm, inappropriately clad in shorts. As a result, our trail names were bestowed upon us by other hikers, and we became “Maine-iacs Uno and Dewey” for the next four months. Friends and family were able to follow our travels on our web blog, to which we would post pictures and weekly updates from internet cafés or libraries in towns. Occasional phone calls kept family up to date on our whereabouts and kept us informed of life in the real world.
We often stayed at shelters. These provided quite a social experience, where we found instant community and in depth discussions, which usually revolved around food. Most days we finished an exhausting 20 miles, barely able to cook our Lipton Rice dinner before falling into a hiking-induced ten-hour coma. Occasionally, “trail angels” provided a barbecue on a mountain bald, or left Whoopie Pies at road crossings or cold Cokes in a stream for us to find. Once a week we would hitch into a nearby town to eat greasy hamburgers or “Hiker’s Special” breakfasts. We became connoisseurs of diners. And along the way, Sean and I reconnected with old friends from North Carolina to Maine, many of whom treated us to “more than one pot” meals, cold beer, and sublime hot showers.
There was time to think, during those long miles in the “green tunnel,” to reacquaint myself with that Dartmouth student of 30 years ago who dreamed of a 2000 mile adventure. The daily challenges of sore feet, aching muscles, hunger, cold, and boredom served to intensify the joys. I experienced exquisite views, had mountaintop wild ponies eating from my hand, walked through a blooming rhododendron forest, and swam in clear waterfalls. Re-climbing the familiar White Mountains of my youth in the company of my son and my father’s spirit made this journey the long awaited fulfillment of a dream.
On September 6, 2007 our 2174 mile hike came to a successful completion on the summit of Mt. Katahdin, an old friend often climbed at home in Maine. After 144 days, 8 pairs of shoes, and 288 Snickers bars, we were home.

Sweet Success

The last white blaze

still light on his feet

The Maineiacs Uno and Dewey completed their 2174 mile Appalachian Trail adventure September 6, 2007 with the ascent of Mt. Katahdin.Uncle Jay (trail name Stick) drove from New Hampshire to hike this last segment with them and to share our final moment of sweet success.

The last 10 days were nearly perfect with respect to weather and hiking conditions. The air was crisp and clear, more fall-like, but perfect for cruise hiking. Dewey's leg injury improved daily, but never seemed to slow him down enough to allow Uno to stay abreast. Coming into Monson, we did experience a brief but violent thunderstorm. Within just a few minutes, the storm came up from nowhere, with lightning and a microburst of high winds, bringing down tree branches above our heads. We quickly pushed on and were quite drenched by the storm, but otherwise unscathed. We pushed into Monson, staying at Shaw's House; a wonderful hiker hostel with an all-you-can-eat breakfast. They seem to be well acquainted with a thru-hiker's appetite, but were astounded that neither of us asked for seconds. (It's possible that this may have raised issues of authenticity as thru-hikers!)
The hike through the hundred mile wilderness came off flawlessly. The weather was perfect, (if not a little chilly for the likes of Dewey). We went into the wilderness with one day's worth of food then met Kathy and Tracey at Gulf Hagas for lunch, a swim in Screw Auger Falls, and to pick up our supplies for the next four days. The first 40 miles is mountainous and is difficult at times. We had a wonderful campsite the first night at Cloud Pond on Barren Mountain, but the 19 miles that day took us til 7:30pm to complete. Then came the slow, arduous, muddy walk over the Chairback range which has a reputation with thru-hikers as the toughest in Maine; only surpassed by the Mahoosucs. After Gulf Hagas, we scaled the last true mountain before Katahdin: Whitecap at 3800' is one of New England's hundred highest peaks. With these mountains behind us, the terrain became much more level, and somewhat easier to cruise through lake country.
Our final day on the trail, we hiked the last three miles to Abol bridge, then 10 miles into Daicey Pond, where Kathy had rented us a cabin for the night. We had the afternoon to relax in the sun, and admire once again the stunning views of Katahdin across the lake. Uncle Jay spent that day hiking the Owl, but joined us that afternoon at the campground.
The final day to summit Katahdin offered us nearly perfect weather conditions. After a somewhat leisurely breakfast of huevos rancheros, we began hiking the Hunt trail from Katahdin Stream at 9am. We were truly energized and nearly ran up the mountain, reaching the summit just before 11:30. We noticed a man taking pictures of us and initially thought the Bangor Daily News was there to cover our finish. But no, it was Uno's partner 'gastro Dan', who had driven up that morning to climb the mountain and greet us with whoopie pies, and hearty congratulations. Not knowing our expected departure time, he had been on the summit since 9:30, a truly heroic effort.
The down-climb was uneventful, as we avoided any rain even though the clouds appeared. There was champagne and celebration at the bottom. Thus ends our saga and adventure on the AT for now. Neither of us was tempted to do a 'yoyo', turning around immediately and hiking to Springer, as some hikers (usually those who have no life) have been known to do in the past. One trip on the AT which was the adventure of a lifetime seems sufficient for now. We both expect to become couch potatoes for the next week, and Kathy has made it her personal crusade to restore at least part of the 37 pounds Uno lost during this excursion. We cannot thank our friends and family enough, especially Kathy, for their help and support, without which the trip would not have been possible!

The End is Near

Screw Auger Falls

Tracey, Sean, Mark, Kathy at Pleasant River crossing

And they're off...again

Sean is grateful to survive his death defying leap. See first picture above for scale.

What a choice...Moxie or Coke? and note Whoopie Pie in other hand

Which way do we go? And do I have to go back to work
on Monday if I turn around and go South?

Posting this for Mark and Sean...they are in the middle of the Hundred Mile Wilderness, heading for Baxter. We found them on Saturday 9/2, near Gulf Hagas, walking out of the woods exactly at the time they predicted. Sean sauntered out carrying a whoopie pie and a Coke, making me wonder if they had actually been hiking or merely dropped off by a passing logging truck. (Trail magic had provided the sustenance.) After a lunch of turkey sandwiches, fresh fruit, carrots, chips, cookies, Powerade, and Moxie (for Sean,) they re-supplied with the provisions I brought. After fording the river, Tracey and I hiked with them to Screw Auger Falls. Sean jumped from a 20 foot ledge into the waterfall pool, hoping that he would survive to finish the hike! Wednesday I will meet them at Daicey Pond, where we will stay the night in Cabin #4. The final ascent of the AT, Mt. Katahdin, will begin early on Thursday, weather permitting. Companion hikers welcome!