Hiking Home: Hiking with Dad

Hi there, Meghan here, guest blogging!

Contents of my pack

When my dad decided to hike the AT for a second time, I couldn't understand why he felt he needed to lace up his boots and hike 2,200 miles again. So, I decided to find out for myself by hiking the 110 miles from Waynesboro, VA to Front Royal, VA in Shenandoah National Park with him. Unlike my brothers, the longest backpacking trip I had ever endured was approximately 20 miles, when I hiked the Routeburn Track in New Zealand almost 10 years ago. But, feeling strong and fit from my recent half marathon training, and having nothing better to do besides binge-watching Nashville (#summervacation), I gathered up exactly 25 pounds worth of critical belongings in my brand new backpack, and set off with my dad from Rockfish Gap.

Mile 0

A friend met me in Charlottesville and drove me to Waynesboro, where dad had gotten quite comfortable with B&B life, but I could tell he was excited to get back on the trail.

The first day was a "short" day, only 8 miles from Rockfish Gap to Calf Mountain Shelter. Little did I know that by the end of trip, yes, 8 miles would, in fact qualify as a short day. The terrain was gradual, and the trail was gentle. I couldn't believe how AMAZING my feet felt. Little did I know how quickly and drastically life below the ankles would change. More on that later.

We stayed the night at Calf Mountain Shelter with 20-30 other hikers. Luckily, we got out early enough so that we were able to secure spots in the shelter. I was a little nervous because in shelter log there was a big announcement from an earlier hiker: CAUTION!! LARGE BLACK SNAKES LIVE UNDER THIS SHELTER!! Dad, the optimist that he is, reminded me that snakes eat mice, so we wouldn't have to worry about rodents. In my world, however, mice > snakes, so yeah, I'll sleep on the top bunk, thank you very much. Can you even call tossing and turning on and ultralight ThermaRest sleeping? Also, did you know that ultra light = ultra thin? Also, how many times can your arms completely fall asleep in one night before you risk permanent damage?

Hanging food bags at Calf Mt. shelter

Day 1 Takeaways: hiking = awesome; living on the trail...questionable.

The second day on the trail we hiked 13 miles from Calf Mountain Shelter to Blackrock Hut. I definitely lost steam close to the end; the last uphill was torture, because at some point in the day, my feet developed about 6 blisters in various locations. There, we met a few other hikers, several of whom we would see here and there throughout the trip--BearSaw, Fire Feet, Ham Fist, Signpost, and Pace, to name a few. The backpacking meals I made from dehydrated vegetables, beans, and rice were awesome! I adapted the recipes from this blog to make them plant-based.

We got a big rainstorm that night, and I met my first thru hiking dog, a golden retriever named Dexter.

Wilson protecting our food from bears.
Notice the claw marks?

Day 3 we hiked 7 miles from Blackrock hut to Loft Mountain Campground, where we were able to drink a beer, get a shower, and eat fries and milkshakes from the Wayside. We got a ride down to the Wayside from a ranger and tried to hitch the 1.5 mile uphill walk back to the campground, but nobody would pick us up. My feet were pretty tender at this point, with more blisters popping up in the weirdest of places, including underneath my big toenail. I bought some cotton souvenir bear socks to give my toes some more room in my shoes, because my hiking socks were too thick, which was contributing to the blisters.

Beer!

Okay so by this point, we're almost 30 miles in. I'm beginning to understand that hiking the AT is the ultimate test of willpower, determination, and strength, and if my feet would just cooperate, I think I could actually get into this. Can I hike in my flip flops?

The next day we hiked another 14 miles to Hightop Hut, and this day, my feet are the absolute worst. I don't want to complain, but every. single. step. is excruciating. I wondered if I'd make it. And then I met the world's original ultralight backpacker, an ancient, adorable lady who slept on a foam pad with a fleece blanket and no pillow. Ok, so if she can hike, I can too, right?

At Hightop Hut we met Tough Love and his thru-hiking pup, Freddy Love, who we would slingshot with for the remainder of our trek through SNP.

Feeling it now!

Leaving the hut the next morning, we had incredible views from the top of Hightop Mountain and then, after just a few miles of hiking, we came across TRAIL MAGIC! This was amazing: they had everything from beer and sweet tea, to sloppy joes, hummus and veggies (YAY) skittles, bandaids, and camp fuel. We sat and socialized with other hikers and the trail magicians (is that what they're called?) for a bit before heading to Lewis Mountain Campground, which was an 11.5 mile day. We got another shower, and some beer at the campground, and we shared a site with Big Heart, Bear Saw, and Fire Feet. The camaraderie on the trail is really something special. When I asked Bear Saw what he does when he's not backpacking he answered something along the lines of being a "salesman of alternative investments," to which I responded, "so you're a drug dealer?" I still don't know what he does.

View from Hightop Mountain

Father's Day Dinner at
Big Meadows Lodge

Big Meadows Campsite

From Lewis Mountain camp we hiked a short 7 or so miles to Big Meadows Campground, where we had sodas and SALAD for lunch at the Wayside. Oh man, iceberg lettuce never tasted so good. We did laundry and had another shower, and the nice lady at the camp store gave me ice for my toe with the blister underneath it, which at this point, was causing some serious swelling. We had a belated Father's Day dinner at the Big Meadows lodge, because, after all, backpacking in SNP is actually more like glamping at times!

The next morning, we headed out with thunder rolling in. Our first destination was Skyland Lodge, where we would have lunch before heading on to Byrds Nest 3 shelter, a 14 mile day in all. We were about a mile from Skyland when we got caught in the first big rain of the day. We hiked quickly and got inside before we got too wet. We had a good lunch at Skyland as we watched a huge thunderstorm bring with it nearly horizontal rain. When the rain stopped, we paid our bill and hit the trail. We didn't get more than a half hour before another thunderstorm rolled in, absolutely soaking us. The first half hour of the storm was fun and exhilarating. But when the rain didn't stop and the trail became a stream, it got a little old. After about an hour of heavy rain, it stopped and we were able to pour out puddles from our shoes, wring out socks and shirts, and hit the trail again.

My feet are ruined.

Backpackers at Skyland

The hike to Byrds Nest 3

We arrived at Byrds Nest 3 Shelter right as the next big storm hit. I nearly ran the last mile, as thunder rumbled in the distance. Watch the video to see how intense the storm was! We were lucky to get a spot in the shelter, which we shared with some interesting characters, one of whom left an OPEN packet of cooked food INSIDE the shelter when he went to sleep. I can't believe we didn't get a visit from bears.
Our friend Big Heart had to negotiate with a mama bear to get water at the shelter; she was pretty sure that spring was for her and her babies, but she eventually let him full up his water bottles. I was bummed I missed this!

Trail Magic Cocktail after
18 Mile Day

From Byrds Nest 3, we hiked 18 miles to Gravel Springs Hut. This was our longest day, but we built up to it well. My feet were still a mess, but they were under control well enough to do it. A little "vitimin I" (ibuprofen) really can change your perspective on life, I'll tell you what. Plus, we got blackberry milkshakes at the last Wayside at Elkwallow Gap, and took a nice long break before trudging on.

View From Hogback Mountain

Our final day on the trail was a 14 miler, from Gravel Springs to Front Royal. We had some incredible views from the top of Marshall Mountain, plus with all the rain, my favorite salamanders, Red-Spotted Newts were out and about.

Marshall Mountain

Adorable eft

View from Marshall Mountain

are we done yet???

I pretty much hit my threshold with 5.5 miles left, but dad listened to me whine and waited while I ate M&Ms to get me through, just like the good old days.

We exited the park but we weren't out of the woods just yet! Front Royal was still a few miles away.

We hit some trail magic a quarter mile from the end, and this local brew couldn't sum up my sentiment about finishing the hike better: freedom from the trail was certainly not free! It cost me my feet (kidding...sort of).

So, 9 days, 110 miles, 15 blisters, 5 thunderstorms, 3 bears, 2 snakes, and countless mountain peaks and gaps later, we arrived in Front Royal, VA.

Entering Front Royal after 110 miles on the AT

I know I complained a lot about my feet, but in all honesty, my feet were the ONLY bad thing about this trip. Everything else was totally and completely amazing.

I have so much respect and admiration for my dad, who is putting himself to the test to complete this trek. I'm sure with the right boots I could do it too.

I was sad to say goodbye and watch my dad trek on. As ready as I was to chuck my boots in a dumpster, give Eric a big hug, and snuggle the cats, there was definitely a part of me that wanted to keep on going. I was warned by a hiker at the beginning of my trip that this would happen. My trail legs were strong, my endurance was peak, and keeping company with my dad was really great. The trail is a really special place. You hike, one step at a time, mile after mile, day after day, and even though I was only there for 110 miles, looking back and seeing what I've accomplished--what my body is capable of doing--is incredibly powerful. I'll see my dad again in Massachusetts in 6 weeks or so, until then: happy hiking; may the trail magic be forever in your favor!