"Hikus Interruptus"

August 26, 2016       Hanover, New Hampshire

  I am once again back home in Maine after making the determination that the leg injury will not resolve in the short run, and given time restraints of return to work by October 3, continuation and completion of the thru-hike this year will be impossible. Instead, I now plan to return to Hanover, NH, my point of exit, next year, and do all or part of the remaining 430 miles to Katahdin at that time, and will complete a 'section' hike of the AT. (The ATC makes no distinction between section and thru-hikers in their recognition of completion of the AT.)

Canoeing on Millinocket Lake, Twin Pine Camps

AT at Daicey Pond

  After nearly two weeks of recuperation, I felt things had improved significantly enough to try a test hike. Kathy and I made a mini-vacation out of it by driving to Twin Pine Camps, outside Baxter State Park. We had a wonderful evening of canoeing on the lake followed by dinner at River Drivers restaurant. The cabin we stayed at was very nice, modern but with a back country flavor and situated right on the lake, which lent itself to spectacular sunrise pictures the following morning. After making a breakfast of omelettes, we set out for the park gate at 7 AM, and on to Katahdin Stream Campground. By the time AT thru-hikers reach Katahdin Stream, they are on their last 5.2 mile section of the trail to the summit. My plan was to hike south 10 miles along the more gentle terrain on the AT to Abol bridge. Kathy and I hiked 4-5 miles together to the Niagara Falls where we had lunch. We saw two fledgling Ospreys in a tree who posed for a photo op. After lunch, we said goodbye as I continued south, and she returned to the campground to drive the car around and pick me up. I briefly hiked with two younger hikers who told me they were just starting a south bound thru-hike. This was late in the year to start a SOBO thru-hike. They had hiked the mountain the day before and were impressed how hard it was to climb. They had good Osprey packs, but all kinds of gear suspended and dangling on the outside. I suspect the hundred mile wilderness taught them what they needed and more importantly what they did not need to carry.

  My hike went well, and the leg and foot felt great. It was a wonderful day to hike though water swelled the streams after a recent thunderstorm. Nesowadnehunk Stream is crossed twice by the AT and a northbound hiker warned me that one of the crossings was dangerous and that I should consider the high water blue blaze bypass trail. I reached Abol Bridge by 1 PM and Kathy arrived shortly thereafter. She found a northbound section hiker who had completed his hike of the AT, and was looking for a ride to Millinocket. There are many opportunities to do a good deed and 'trail magic'. Exiting the woods to Abol, I suddenly heard "Maineiac!" It was Bright Side, a young German hiker I had hiked with in Virginia, along with his brother and Rob. I had last seen them several weeks ago in Daleville ,VA, and here he was about to successfully complete his hike. I was very happy for him.

  The following Sunday, I hit the trail for real from my point of exit at Bromley Mountain. After an overnight in Plymouth MA to see friends, we drove to my daughter's home in Greenfield MA, and stayed the night there. From there we drove to Mad Tom Notch, and I was once again on the AT. Given the ankle swelling issue, I bought a bright pair of athletic compression knee socks, and was planning to use vitamin ' I ', on a daily basis, to try to maintain control and healing of my injury. 

  

Baker Mountain, Vermont

  The first day out, I kept the mileage to a reasonable 14 miles to the Little Rock Pond Shelter. The hiking seemed easy even with the full pack, and two weeks of inactivity. This was a beautiful pond tucked into the mountain. I arrived 30 minutes before the rain started. The rain continued for most of the night with a few thunderstorms as well. The metal roof resounded with the pounding rain at times. Once again, it was a good night to be in a shelter.

  The rain stopped in time for the start of the next day's hike of 20 miles. The terrain was fairly gentle with a few stiff up and downs, but for the most part, the hiking was easy and I felt great. I did run into a young hiker heading south who looked familiar. Then he gave me his story, which was definitely familiar. He told me he was a NOBO, but had to return to the nearest road to get into Rutland to straighten things out with his bank who had 'red-flagged' his ATM card leaving him without any funds. He asked if I had a few dollars I could spare to help him through. Well, I had seen this same hiker, with this same story in Cheshire Ma., two and a half weeks ago. The bank again... maybe he just needed to change banks! As hikers help other hikers in distress, I gave him money then, but now it was obvious that he was financing his AT thru-hike by pan-handling other hikers. I did not repeat my mistake and he went on his way. I warned several south bounders about the scam. Arriving at the Governor Clement shelter, I found only two other women there camping in tents. Unfortunately, I also found that the new sock arrangements had given me another blister under my toenail, the first blister since Georgia.

  The next day brought me to the summit of Killington on an especially spectacular day. Once again, the climb was long, over 2500', but very reasonable. I met a couple of groups on top with hikers from a local college out for a day hike. From the summit, I could see the Adirondack Mountains as well as the Whites.

View from Killington

After Killington, I walked the remaining 6 miles to Sherburn Pass and the Inn on the Long Trail. It is a stay hikers love, though it is not know for four star accommodations. It is a room, a shower, great breakfast, and a great restaurant with a bar. I arrived early in the afternoon, and now was seeing more swelling in the ankle. I wore the compression sock to bed that night, and it seemed better in the morning. However I was worried this might mean I was not rid of the injury yet and with the hike, the injury was making a comeback.

  The next day proved to be a fairly difficult day with several climbs over 18.5 miles. It was more clear but humid again and the exertion soaked my clothing. As the day went on, my leg seemed to bother more and more. The next day was especially challenging terrain, with many hard steep climbs. Originally I planned to finish 20 miles, but by the time I reached West Hartford, a small town west of White River Junction, my foot and attitude were done. I spoke to a friend who lives outside of Hanover, and he agreed to pick me up the following day. I was determined that I was going to finish walking the AT in Vermont.

  The next day, I started walking in the pouring rain, which gradually subsided as the morning went on. The hike to Norwich proved fairly easy, and the hike was done by 11:30. My friend Tom picked me up. His four dogs especially liked Wilson, and wanted to get to know him better. I thought this ill-advised, however. Tom got me to a car rental agency and I drove that day back to Bangor with the resolve to finish my hike next year as a section hike.

Ledyard Brige over the Connecticut River

  Two days after my return home, I climbed Katahdin with my son, and his four other of his fit Tufts friends, all former track team members. We did this as a day hike from Roaring Brook, on a trail not part of the AT. We climbed to Chimney Pond, scaled the Cathedral Trail, and balanced across the knife's edge.  This was a harder ascent than the AT/Hunt Trail from Katahdin Stream. The gesture was largely symbolic. These were not the circumstances under which I had hoped to climb the big mountain, but in a way, it felt like the appropriate end to this year's journey.